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The people of Hangzhou love crab. In the early Song dynasty, when Qian Kun sought a post outside the capital, someone asked which prefecture he desired. He replied, "Any place with crab and no vice prefect will do." People told it as a joke for years, but it does say something about the allure of fresh crab.\nRecords of Strange Things recounts how Sun Chengyou gestured to the dishes at his banquet and declared: "At this table today, we have the mud crabs of the south, red mutton of the north, shrimp and fish of the east, and millet of the west. Nothing is lacking. One might well call this wealth from all four corners of the earth."\nYet crab has its season, so a clever cook turned to fish, blending the essence of crab roe and fat into a secret sauce that makes the fish burst with crab flavor at first bite.