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"Where fish and salt gather, a market grows; where cooking fires rise, a village forms."\nWest Lake is rich with fish and other aquatic bounty. Tao Gu's Records of Strange Things recounts how Mao Sheng, a man of the Wuyue Region, once wrote a joking Register of Honors for the Water Folk, praising the local fish and shrimp as something "found nowhere else under heaven."\nWuyue cuisine favors fresh, clean tastes, and fish is never cooked with heavy seasoning. Over time, the sweet-and-sour method came into favor, and by Southern Song, the Millet Dream Record lists it among Lin'an's schools of fish cookery.\nThe dish demands the most exacting ingredients. The fish must be kept alive in clean water until every trace of grit is purged, then poached in boiling water until just done. The art lies in the timing and heat, and the balance of sweet and sour.